How to Paint A Room Fast Like A Pro (Tips for Beginners)

Another tip is to soak your brush in water before you start, then spin it dry, this keeps the paint from setting up in the ferrule and you can paint longer before having to clean it.

Everyone thinks they can cut near the trim and ceiling like a pro without tape, but I've been in too many rentals that prove that yall are NOT pros lol. That is a learned art that comes with a lot of practice and a steady hand. You can tell this guy has done this a lot. Good tips.

Another good hack I saw was to put your paint tray into a plastic bag ,then pour the paint onto the lined tray, clean up just remove the bag off the clean tray underneath 👍

I'm a reasonably experienced painter. This video is excellent in that it explains the techniques simply and in order. "Roll one-back, two-forward" is excellent. If I were to add a couple things it would be to teach the unload-and-spread technique, that is dump the paint from your brush, then use the last 1/4 inch of the long side of the brush to spread in the cut corner, while gliding on the smooth dump, and then taper the bottom of the cut. The other would be before applying a cut, breath in, and exhale while using your shoulder to cut, not your wrists. Shoulders are simple and stable, makes for straight lines. Wrists are complex and short, makes for wavy lines. A cut should be about as wide as your body and not much more. Breath in, hold, dump, drag up, draw with your shoulder as you exhale, and end on a taper at the end. My two cents aside, this is the best video tutorial on painting that I've run into, over many years. Subscribed.

For cutting in i simply use a plaster trowel. hold in place and paint along and wipe, Perfect line every time. 👌

I’ve painted many rooms in my life and watched a lot of painting videos so I didn’t expect to learn anything new. Boy was I wrong! You have actually made me excited to start some jobs I’ve been putting off.

I really like the 1/8th gap idea for cutting in on the first coat. Makes a lot of sense.

I'm a pro residential custom painter and I approve this guy's methods. He does everything that I do except a few small things. Such as that I will cut in perfect lines the first coat then cut 1/8" below the perfect line on the second coat (because one thick well applied coat of good paint is often sufficient for most repaints). Also, I keep my brushes wrapped in plastic to keep them wet until the job is done or I'm switching paints and need the brush. I don't like using a wet or damp brush as it can compromise the form of the bristles. I do however recommend that angle sash brush by purdy. Its call high capacity and I like using those of any size, anywhere from 2" - 3" for most applications. Pros typically have at least one brush of each size. 4" flat wall brush for wide areas or siding exterior. 3.5" angle brush for exterior trim or wide interior trim. 3" angle brush for most exterior trim and cutting in walls. A 2.5" angle sash for cutting in walls and most average size trim. A 2" angle sash for smaller prices of trim molding, windows and tight wall cuts between trim and inside wall corners. A 1.5" brush, a 1" brush and a set of artist brushes will also be useful on occasion I do also use that 18" Purdy roller frame and I wrap my rollers in plastic too, but instead I use a 1/2" nap on most walls and just backroll it for a perfect texture. It's faster than doing all that dipping you need to do with a thinner nap like a 3/8" because you will want to backroll either way so may as well dip fewer times. It goes on thicker much faster and will look better because it's easier to keep the whole wall wet the entire time you're saturating the wall. You don't want to be fighting with half dry paint where you started once you start to backroll

I’m relieved to see that you demonstrated steps that promote quality results. Anyone can paint a room fast. Few paint well…including today’s so-called professionals.

A tip you might try that I like…I prefer to tape the baseboard, then paint a ‘whisper’ coat on the tape and wall with very little paint on the brush. This creates a light seal between the tape and walls. Then apply final full coat, remove tape before final coat dries, you’ll have a perfect straight line with no bleeding under the tape.

I've just painted my kitchen ceiling 6 times and there are still patches. It wasn't fun and I've lost the will to live.

Yours is an excellent tutorial: well-paced, detailed, laden with cautionary advice, devoid of superfluous content, only as long as necessary. Thanks!

Never wipe your brush. Always tap it side to side. Wiping removes paint that you just loaded, and causes the paint to migrate up to the ferrule. The paint dries out and does not clean out, thereby stiffing the bristles. Things you learn painting for 40 years. The only time I use 18 inch rollers is in commercial properties with large areas.

For the paint bucket the brush is used in, I always put in a ziplock bag, tape around the overhang and when not using you can then zip up the bag to save your paint till needed again. Never have to clean your bucket after either!

Definitely good advice. After 35 years, allow me to offer some improvement: 1) after dipping your brush do NOT wipe all sides, thus removing paint, instead gently tap the brush against the side of the can which will prevent dripping but give plenty more paint for cutting (2) hold the brush higher up the stem and allow the brush to "do the work" -a good brush will follow your lead allowing for longer strokes, (3) do NOT cut any lines twice, if you're painting the baseboard later (and the color difference isn't extreme) then just paint over it and make your line later when cutting the trim etc, even if tape is necessary (4) don't "force" the roller... do NOT bend your back up and down with the stick but instead adjust the height and distance you stand to where your arms can reach from top to bottom without stretching, this alone will dramatically increase speed, (5) do NOT "stretch" the paint out on the roller -always keep a reasonable amount of paint on it even though this seems slower and harder.

I’ve been painting for many years, my dad originally taught me how to paint but never passed on a lot of these helpful tips. Thank you for your video, I’m starting a new job today and will employ these super handy tips.

Wowza! Finally an explanatory video that I can do! This HAS to be the BEST video on YouTube! I have learned so much! I’m a widow. I want to paint my LR, BR, and DR. My husband used to paint everything. I am so glad to finally find a good tutorial on walls, rollers and brushes. Thank you!

I am 66yrs have painted a few walls you make progress look so much easier and gives you a sort of confidence that work will be done so much better your tall an strong make short work of the job Thank you for your help teaching us old timers never to late to teach an old dog new tricks Just about to paint my flat!

I’m a pro painter and I can say these are all spot on. Great work!

Don't allow the paint to get that close to the ferrule. If it does, clean your brush immediately. Paint in the ferrule is the death knell of a brush, and wherever it is on the outside of the bristles, it will be further in on the inside. Store your brushes either pointing downwards or on their sides to prevent any moisture pushing back towards the ferrule whilst drying. If painting woodwork that edges on to a wall that is being painted (particularly window sills outside) do those first, and take the gloss past the wood and onto the wall as this will help form a seal against water ingress and similar. Emulsion is orders of magnitude easier to clean off of gloss than vice versa. When taking short breaks (eg to have lunch), you can load a brush with extra paint rather than clean it. This will prevent the paint drying on the bristles whilst you are away. A plastic bag around the bristles with an elastic band at the handle can help here. Obviously how long this will be effective depends on such things as type of paint, ambient temperature, etc