Why is that circuit breaker tripping when AC running

Initially I thought 15+ A on your AC is quite high but then, I remembered you're on 120 V. As against that, my AC here in Australia draws around 8 A but we're on 240 V so that makes sense. The actual wattage consumption is very similar. ...and you're right. Humidity makes ACs run a lot harder usually.

I don't think drawing 15A is normal for something designed to plug into a 15A socket. Something has to be wrong with the ac itself. Bad run cap, plugged evap or condenser, something like that.

That yellow wire nut is a scary situation The nut itself and the 3 wires hooked in too much need to move a few things around my brother

You might consider running a 12-gauge wire and installing a 20-amp circuit to the A/C. Most 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge wire which is only rated for 15 amp or less use. You might want to consider a circuit breaker with a HCAR rating which allows a small startup surge for compressors and motors to start.

Good video Dave! I always learn something new from you. I have a question: what is that wire ended in a triangle shape on the right of the video at 10:29?

Would this be the same as a double door freezer somebody plug in a fan in the same area sounds like it would probably blow it as well?

In the country I live in, we can draw 2300w from a normal power socket we have in the wall inside the house. 10A 230V AC. 15A 110V becomes 1725w. 1725w works fine for countries with 230V 240V but not so well for countries with 110v ac. I'm starting to wonder if this is measured from the factory in 220v 230v ac. and not 110v

Here in Finland ofc our outlets can handle lot more wattage, as being 230V country and in every home every outlet is atleast behind 10A braker, some outlets are 16A such as the kitchen. Also we have 3 phases in every house/appartment, 3x 230V

Reminds me of when I used to test and review computer power supplies. People don't realize those big 1500W units almost always overdraw a 15A circuit if they're running wide open, regardless of the efficiency rating. I had to wire a 20A dedicated circuit for those. I saw the big ones pull over 16A depending on our line voltage at the time. Hated testing those ones in the summer.

Good idea Dave. Once the new breaker is installed, I'd like to see the temp of the wires. Now I know that the run is not too long but just curious to see if the wire get a little warm. The next step would be to upgrade this run to 12 Ga. Just saying. Keep safe friend.

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I like that clip on ammeter. I need to get one. I heard they don't work on two conductor cords. But other than that, it would be great. I already have a plug in ammeter, wattmeter, etc.

I'm under the impression the AC has an issue. I've never had an issue with the a 120 volt 14k BTU AC that wasn't on its own circuit.

Hello dave keep cool greatings from portugal !

How old is the AC and is it dirty. Dirty condenser coil will drive up head pressure and amperage. Well, so can load, it's hot outside. If you have 12 gauge wire less than 100' you can put 20anp breaker in.

these "close to 15a" size portable ACs tend to do this under voltage drop, say it's a hot day and the utility voltage is 115v or lower instead of 120v, nearly anything won't care but ofc the compressor will pull more amps to compensate and with such a marginal design will overamp the breaker. this is especially a problem if the power company undersized the distribution transformer which they tend to a lot. since your wire is already 12 Gauge for you the quick fix is just install a tandem (2 in one space) breaker, make it a 20 amp circuit and get rid of the pigtail. you also say the kill a watt reports 1100w? what does the power factor and VA say? you could also try sticking a capacitor across the outlet if the air conditioner is designed without one (a bit cheap and nasty but it is what it is). it would reduce the voltage drop, amp draw and boost the efficiency a little...

Just installed my new "pyro clean" oven and Induction stove combo by Hanseatic. Three phases of 230 Volts, 400V between phases. Loads nicely balanced between the three phases. Gosh how these stink if you do the first burn in...

That amp draw is unstable and seems too high for even larger 115volt designated a/c units.

Your AC unit should have a tag on it indicating the maximum current draw when it's running full out. How does this number compare to your reading? Sounds to me like 15 amps is too much to pull from a 120 volt outlet. The 12 gauge wiring is good, but I think there's something wrong with the AC unit to begin with, for pulling that much current. Just my two cents

15 amp for a portable AC seems excessive. How much BTU does it have? A 9000 BTU unit should not draw much more than 10 amps, a 12000 BTU unit around 12. That breaker is getting way to hot.