If You LOVE One Of These Additives, DON'T Watch This Video!

WOW! I'm blown away by the response to this video. Thanks to everyone who has watched and commented. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and for caring enough to share your thoughts. There is no way I can respond to all these comments, so please take this as my thank you to you!

From my understanding, Seafoam is meant to be added 100-300 miles BEFORE an oil change. It is meant to help break down deposits so they are removed when changing your oil. It is not meant to be added with fresh new oil as an additive.

"As the oil life is shortened, the deposits will increase." That's specifically why I've never felt comfortable with 10K(+) mile oil changes, even with the best oil.

I want to play devils advocate here as someone who has ran the Lucas oil stabilizer for pretty much my entire life without issue. (Granted i drive only old-school flat tappet classic era stuff) Some positives which you almost somewhat indirectly confirmed for me here we're that it doesn't conflict with an existing additive package, only delutes it - so if you change your oil at 3k-ish like I do, probably not an issue. What I can speak to from pulling valve covers is the cling factor - it definitely keeps a nice oil film on critical parts after sitting for awhile. On a dry start after a couple days, things basically run dry till oil gets there - it's small, but compared to anything else probably pretty high wear delta. I wouldn't be surprised at all if mitigating those dry starts, especially with flat tappet cams, has enabled me to stack copious amounts of miles on old classics without any notable wear. I'm not married to either idea, but I do have reason to beleive that there is something to the cling factor. I "think" that's the sneaky sauce behind it. Would I put Lucas oil stabilizer in a modern 0w-20 type vehicle? Heck no. Wouldn't even consider it due to the viscosity. Only old-school flat tappet cam engines - and still I'm highly mindful of my oil pressure.

I have 10 years worth of Blackstone oil analysis sheets I can firmly vouch for 3 standout additives. The first one is the regular Rislone Oil Additive in the yellow bottle, does indeed clean sticky rings and greatly reduces oil burning and afterwards wear metals were lower than ever. Second one is Liquimoly Ceretec, we ran this in over 50 ford 5.4 and 6.8 triton engines and saw a huge decrease in wear metals for 15,000 miles and 3 oil changes later (Liquimoly states it works for 20,000 miles). Wear returned to the "average" number given by lab after 20,000 miles. But we had 3 valve tritons last well over 300k and are still on the road going strong thanks to Ceretec every 20,000 miles. Third is the Liquimoly Mos, this is a great additive as well, personally ran between ceretec treatments in my personal car which was VW 2.0t, cam followers lasted 80k miles instead of the average 35k. Sold the car with original engine and turbo with over 300k on it.

As a State government worker we were required to add a quart of Hyperlube, company was homebased here, at each oil change in our State issued vehicles. After a few years and a series of unexplained engine failures, Ford tested, found the additive and determined overtime it restricted oil passages, which caused bearing failure. No more additive or lose your warranty. Now we just use engine oil.

I was always under the impression that Seafoam wasn't an additive, but a solvent/cleaner that you were supposed run only for a very short time just prior to an oil-change...

Tried Sea Foam once in tank and and inside the crankcase for 300 mi. Did absolutely nothing. Would rather spend money on smth else. Thank you, Lake. I wish this video was released earlier. Selling snake oils should be forbidden on the governmental level.

Man that's awesome. I've told people for a long time now not to add stuff to the oil, and now I have proof. Thanks.

Oil has definitely changed a lot over the years. I remember back in the mid 80's when you pulled the valve covers off an engine with over 80,000 miles you had to use a spoon to scoop all the hardened crud out of the rockers. Now, I've worked on engines with way over 100,000 miles on them and they still look clean. Shows the big improvement in the packages in the oil.

I love that-"I used brand X additive and picked up 5 mpg." Well I used brand X additive and I lost 5 main bearings." LOL. I wasn't expecting that. Hilarious.

I've never used any engine oil additive ever. Watching this video, seems that was the right decision.

Thanks for the info, completely changed my mindset! I've used Prolong on several engines, and never noticed anything bad, but seeing your analysis results, I will never use an additive in my engine oil ever again! And I'm forwarding your video to my mechanic buddy!

The best oil additive is fresh oil, meaning frequent oil changes. Some people, for various reasons just cannot bring themselves to do that. Also, the use of oil additives has a strong psychological component.

Hi Lake, First off, THANK YOU FOR HELPING YOUR AUDIENCE!! We truly appreciate what you share. I'm not much of a tune-up in a bottle mechanic short of gas additives to keep injectors clean. That being said, years back, I tried and liked Slick 50. Then, at some point, the company sold, and the recipe changed. I didn't catch it right away, but when I did, I stopped using it. Now, recently, the original Slick 50 inventor started selling the original formula, updating the technology and promoting it as classic or original or something like that verbiage. It would be fantastic if you could include both versions in your next oil additive rundown. Please keep up the great work. You rock buddy! TJ

Thank you for you time and effort making this video. The information you provided is very important and much appreciated. Knowledge is power to make wise , informed decisions. Thanks Again!

You're slowly becoming my favorite motor oil consultant, sir.

This is the video we needed. FR3 gained popularity in the diesel community because Hot Shot’s tested it in a Cummins on Firepunk Diesel’s dyno. They showed that FR3 slightly increased the power. After seeing your video, it would have done that because it lowered the viscosity but it’s actually INCREASING wear. Very good stuff here that a lot of people are going to hate to hear

I love that you have a scientific approach to what you do Lake! Really appreciate the work you do man! Just want to point out that even if one is striving for a scientific approach, one should not underestimate what goes into scientific research at a scientific laboratory. What I mean by that is simply that, even though your results are very telling and at the very least work as a strong indicator, unless you can scientifically prove that you have accounted for every possible variable and eliminated every source of human error (which isn't really practically realistic), we can't technically call it irrefutable scientific proof of anything. In fact, doing so at all is very unscientific to begin with. What we definitely can do however is draw some reasonable conclusions from the results you got. And I think you have definitely aided in that regard with this video. Thanks man!

thanks for taking the time to share....💙💯