How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops | Ask This Old House

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Published 2016-02-11
This Old House host Kevin O'Connor learns how to create concrete kitchen counters. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Shopping List for How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops:
- Latex gloves [amzn.to/2ZVP0rG], worn while mixing and working concrete
- 1/4-inch plywood [amzn.to/2vDvFgS], for making template of counters
- Hot-melt glue sticks [amzn.to/2VH9Sng], for glue gun [amzn.to/2VJe85E]
- Melamine-faced particleboard [amzn.to/2LojMpO], for building the concrete form
- Silicone sealant [amzn.to/2J0DwxF], to seal inside corner joints on the form
- Beeswax [amzn.to/2vyeopw], for lubricating the inside of the form
- 3/8-inch-diameter plastic dowel [amzn.to/2LiP816], used to smooth the silicone
- Sand [amzn.to/2Wktc6M], cement [amzn.to/2WniWKW], polymer [amzn.to/2H0aJqW], and powdered pigment [amzn.to/2H2Bxag], mixed to create concrete
- Acetone [amzn.to/2ZU2R1J] and clean rags [amzn.to/2IVcs35], for cleaning the form
- Stone aggregate, used to add bits of color to the countertop
- Glass fibers [amzn.to/2GUINn9], added to strengthen the concrete
- 1-inch-thick polystyrene foam [amzn.to/2PK1L3X], used to fill concrete form
- 1x3 furring strips [amzn.to/2VaZZia] and 1 5/8-inch screws [amzn.to/2VLBk3d], for holding down the polystyrene foam
- 80-, 100- and 220-grit abrasive disks [amzn.to/2GYhKse], for random-orbit sander [amzn.to/2vAaJaC]
- Concrete sealer [amzn.to/2vCFSuc], to seal countertop
- Steel wool [amzn.to/2VdbiGO], for applying concrete sealer
- Construction adhesive [amzn.to/2vEYrO5], to adhere counter to cabinets

Tools List for How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops:
- Hot-melt glue gun [amzn.to/2VJe85E], to assemble plywood template
- Table saw [amzn.to/2VIf1LJ] and miter saw [amzn.to/2ZW835e], for ripping and crosscutting melamine-faced particleboard
- Caulking gun [amzn.to/2JaUh8T], to apply silicone sealant [amzn.to/2J0DwxF]
- Dust mask [amzn.to/2UYRQID] and safety goggles [amzn.to/2H00tiv], to wear when mixing and dry-sanding concrete
- 1/2-inch electric drill [amzn.to/2UR4vxf] with mixing paddle [amzn.to/2GVN6yE], to blend concrete
- Wet/dry vacuum [amzn.to/2IXGhQq], for removing dust and dirt
- Air sprayer [amzn.to/2GTVcaZ] and compressor [amzn.to/2VdpDTD], to spray concrete into the form
- Hand roller [amzn.to/2YasPMN], for compacting concrete
- Utility knife [amzn.to/2PJvJVz], to cut polystyrene foam
- Cordless drill [amzn.to/2UR4vxf]
- Right-angle grinder [amzn.to/2VKgEse] with diamond-impregnated cut wheel [amzn.to/2ZVPrlG], to smooth the cured concrete
- Pry bar [amzn.to/2USuhBl], for removing the polystyrene foam
- Hammer [amzn.to/2ZTYvYy] and chisel [amzn.to/2IZ6xd7], to tap apart the particleboard form
- Sanding block [amzn.to/2LvaAzU], for rounding over sharp corners on the countertop
- Wide-blade putty knife [amzn.to/2Y6dUmy], to free countertop from form
- Wet grinder with pad [amzn.to/2H1hS9s], for smoothing countertop surface
- Random-orbit sander [amzn.to/2vAaJaC], to smooth the countertop

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How to Build Custom Concrete Countertops | Ask This Old House
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All Comments (21)
  • @mohhassen8857
    Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds youtube.com/post/Ugkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7… . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
  • @OldManTheseDays
    What a fantastic show. I’ve watched this on PBS since I was about 10 years old. Still top notch.
  • @immortaljatt05
    Kevin: This guy put some sea shells in his counter top Richard: From the seashore lol
  • @bigclivedotcom
    Really loved that. Reminds me a lot of the terrazzo floors laid in supermarkets while I worked in the refrigeration industry. Super tough like complexly textured marble.
  • @ronreiserer8556
    When dry grinding concrete, you should use a positive pressure HEPA filtered respirator. A standard dust mask will not stop the respirable particles between 0.1 and 5 microns that cause silicosis. Wet cutting/grinding eliminated respirable crystalline silica and is the best way to cut/grind concrete. The insidious nature of silicosis makes it particularly problematic. Symptoms may not become noticeable for 30 years after exposure. Even "accelerated silicosis" takes up to 10 years before symptoms require medical care. If you can see abrasively cut concrete dust in the air, you are being exposed to respirable crystalline silica. Crystalline silica was moved to the Group 1 Carcinogen list (same as asbestos) back in 1997 but has gotten very little attention. Legislation to improve OSHA regulations have been blocked by the concrete industry.
  • @rmccarrillo1759
    Good vid...... Hmmmmm.... I did one....years ago. Still looks sharp as can be. I used less, paid less and I did it with a person who had 55 years (give or take) of experience + my 5 months (give or take). A lil thicker, polished and personalised it. Thanks Dad for the help, ideas and everything else you brought to the table.
  • @TimGray
    Very cool to see the old way of doing this. I am so glad modern process is done easier and in place on the cabinets. but it is always nice to see the old way of doing things.
  • @JoshuaMalavolti
    This gave me so much validation to the process that I do. So many videos of people making countertops skip the finishing part with filling air bubbles. I slurry the surface the same way. Typically I wet the surface first before I slurry to make sure I get a good bond of the slurry to the existing piece. I do float my pours... yes heavier but so much easier and faster but I don't have issues with the fiberglass showing through.
  • @nickbregin8370
    To everyone complaining about pouring in layers and rolling...The MOST important part of rolling the layers is actually to help the fibers lay flat. It's not mentioned in the video. If you just pour in one shot, fibers will be oriented all over the place, where the vertical ones won't do much. Like rebar, it's the horizontal fibers that are adding most of the strength.
  • @thecaptain8773
    Thanks for your time making this vid. I agree with some of the comments about fiberglass in the top layer but for the most part I learned a lot and I am grateful to people who share their time and experience for the benefit of others. For everyone with negative comments, where are your vids? I would like to critique them as well...
  • @JohnBorgen
    It would have been nice to see how they laid out the sink and took care of the sink hole in the counter top.
  • @jensalan
    8:30 "Sometimes I leave rigid foam in, but I think it's a cleaner look if we take it out." Even though nobody is going to look at the bottom of the countertop when it's installed. lol.
  • @soco13466
    Just a word of advice: I have done concrete restoration (decorative overlay over repaired and ground, or new concrete)... If you're going to grind concrete dry, those painter's masks are less than useless. Lose the beard, go to Lowes, and get a proper, tight fitting face mask. That is, if you wish to continue breathing afterward. I know. That dust is deadly. Now, for the actual job done above, I'd like to try that. The initial spray keeps bubbles to a minimum, and the layers with the fiber reminds me of how they make surfboards, in laminated layers. here's something we tried: Go to the pet department, fish stuff. Get that colored gravel. Use that for the aggregate sprinkled onto the initial layer. Another idea: embedded fiber optic , ends against the melimine, in organized bundles, to a light source. Polish the top. Flip the switch, and... the sky is the limit.
  • @DanBurgaud
    I like the glass and sea shells! awesome!
  • I am looking for that look of a thick overhang, an appearance of having a 5inch thick countertop for a firepit table. This is the best video I have seen to make it look like that without actually using all that cement. Now just trying to figure out all the cuts I need to make to have a rectangular in the center where the fire will be coming out. Thanks for a great video
  • @jeffquinn5653
    Not sure I could put that much labor into a countertop that is virtually impossible to keep stain free even with sealers applied on a continual basis but it is intriguing.