Drilling Hardened Steel With Masonry Bits

I knew you could do this, but your video showed it well, thanks mate

Tests like this are a great use for 9mm wrenches.

Nice demo.You didn't talk us to death like some do.I like that.I have dulled many bits drilling hardened steel.Now I can do it the right way.Thank you and looking forward to more useful demos.

This is legit. I used one of these bits to drill out a broken bolt that had been work hardened to a point that nothing would touch it.

Good demonstration very useful tip to know. Cheers Tony

Great tip and I am sure to use this some time in the future. Thanks for the video.

Your lesson helped me a lot! Thanks

Wow. I never knew that but I had 4 case hardened steel parts to drill an oil hole in and the masonry bit worked like a charm. Took only 5 minutes to do 4 pieces.

Great info. Your attention to detail is what makes the difference between success and failure. Following your procedure also gives (most importantly) repeatable results,,,,the best kind of results. I have a blind hole in a piece of turning stock that inadvertently became ‘work hardened’ through the use of a cheap drill. I now have a viable and repeatable method to drill past this zone in my work piece. Thanks

Brilliant bit of information 👌 Thank you for sharing 👍

Thank you for Good information...^^ From South Korea..

Worked like a charm Thanks for the heads up! My first try I had it too pointed but once I flattened it out just like he said I was drilling holes :)

Congratulations ! Very usefull, thank you for your excellent explanations.

i did this trick and bam worked like a charm and i tryed just about every thang thank you sir for your expertes

Good job Chief!👍👍

Thanks for this! Was drilling hardened steel yesterday and dulled too many bits. Next time I'll know what to do!

Destruction for "positive" purpose is good. please keep your great work continue.

Be aware that when using carbide tooling on the mill or lathe you either do or do not use cutting fluid or coolant,the reason is this if you use oil/coolant(milk) you have to flood the part not just add it here and there because the carbide is so hard it cannot take heat stress ie sudden cooling ,it will shatter. No lube or coolant can be done easily at reduced speed,in the case of the drill i would add the oil to the top of the drill shank to allow a constant feed down the drill as the oil gets closer to the carbide the steel shank will heat the oil up to match the carbide temperature,use a brush to add the oil as it holds oil on the bristles as a reservoir. I've ruined plenty of cutting tools on the mill and lathe by not realising carbide is happy dry cutting,just don't thermally shock it or it's done for.

thank you very much. it helped me a lot

that under cut could be made with the drill held in a vice and use a small diamond wheel on a dremel.