STOP! Watch This Before You Use A Oscillating Multi Tool (Stupid Mistake)

I always slow the speed down to cut through metal to reduce heat that ruins the temper of the blade and don't push hard. Let the tool do the work.

I feel like most people focus on one spot in the blade making cuts with these. For longer live try to use the entire length of the cutting edge evenly and give the blade q chance to fool down when it starts to heat up. These tips have greatly increased the life of my multi tool blades. Also not pushing it too hard and letting the tool do the work.

Blades last alot longer in those oscillating tool when you dont push it into the material you are cutting. Instead you basically let the tool do all the work. Slight pressure is all it needs. And the blade will eat through the material (including nails) and last alot longer. Give it a try

I was hoping you were going to give a grand finale at the end by cutting large bolt! 😆

I feel like everyone was waiting for u to cut the big lag screw lol

Most of the guys I've seen burn out the blade with one NAIL was because they were hulking down on them way too hard instead of letting them cut.

Multi tools are perfect for making junction box holes, making notches in wood, removing grout without damaging the tiles, sanding the ends or skinny sides of wood for glue ups, and more. However, a one handed reciprocating saw fills in the gap between a circular saw and a multi tool for cutting material.

I use the fein carbide blade. It was expensive but well worth the price in my opinion. I'm an electrician and mostly use it for metal and drywall. Very impressed.

I've been using a dremel carbide for metal since last year. You can also sharpen most of these blades really easily. I use dremel with the cutting disc. When your teeth are flat cut it straight across then make the teeth then sharpen with the sanding disc.

Aaaaagh beat to trying these new blades. I have box full of use or part used metal wood blades from Fein. All current blades are Starlock 2 , the new blades look good , the thing I find important is the speed setting for cutting and not forcing the cut. Very good and informative video for those still learn about these amazing tools .

Those blades sure beat the "wood only" POS blades my boss buys by the 100-pack.

This makes sense because I just bought the Dremel 5 amp version of this. One of my first cuts, I absolutely trashed a wood/metal blade trying to cut through a screw. I knew it was a tough screw because I picked up the old rotary Dremel with the carbon fiber all-purpose locking disc and still had some trouble with that! I stopped cutting out of concern for sparks, sawdust and fire safety, then just snapped it off with a pair of pliers. Now I know why I was just a bit disappointed with the “metal” performance of those blades. It seems that nails or staples are no problem for it as it quickly cut through old cabinets to make room for a new dishwasher installation.

Had to use an oscillating tool to cut through a 7/16" stainless bolt that I needed to remove. Some doofas had cross threaded the nut, so it only backed out about 1/8 of an inch (at most) before locking up, even using a 2 ft breaker bar. Couldn't use an angle grinder because I had to minimize scuffing of the equipment surface and the metal cutting wheels are just too thick. That's where the circular blade came into play on my tool (Rockwell Sonicrafter). I had one of the Dewalt titanium ones and was able to cut through the bolt with only one blade because of all the teeth on it. Took out about 1/3 of the teeth, but it got the job done. Also took quite a while as we had to stop to let both the bolt and the blade cool, but the customer was impressed.

My carbide blades have cut rebar in some cases...or lower control arm bolts lol...yes it lost some teeth but in a pinch it worked. (Now my grinder goes everywhere it goes,right tool for the right job is not only quicker,but saves me money)

you can imagine, if the shank is longer, that 2 to 4 degrees of travel around the center of the pivot means the teeth travel farther and thus a lot more teeth travel across the curf in each stroke so the blade cuts faster and if the blade is radiused around the pivot point (fulcrum) as the blade oscillates back and forth, it maintains constant contact rather than bouncing off the surface because the two far ends of a straight cut blade travel forward in relation to the center point of the radius or arc that the blade travels around in a back and forth motion. So if you guys (and girls) want a better experience and less vibration and fatigue using an oscillating tool look for radiused blades for them and the longer the shank the better.

Hell ya !!! Brother Vince sporting the Fein. Good job on the demo of the blade. Must people I introduce Fein to, do not realize what the Fein blade can do. I am long time user of Fein products. Thanks you sir for putting the information out there.

That blade can't be cheap, but good to know it's out there. Thanks for the info Vince

I just made this same “screws vs nails” mistake with a brand new diablo framing blade on a deck demo. Won’t be doing that again.

If only this video came out 3 hours ago before I ruined my blade trying to cut some screws lol

@ Vince. Don't get me wrong I Love the tool reviews and tips. But something you haven't done in a long time are general construction tips. I would love to see a job site video soon. Something to think about would be maybe a build a simple stair stringers or something along those lines. You wouldn't believe how many apprentices I get that give the deer in headlights look when I try to explain how to figure a simple rise and run for a set of steps. 🤣