I ordered this sawmill 15 MONTHS AGO!! It finally came in, was it worth the wait!??

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Published 2023-03-11
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All Comments (21)
  • @wayne-oo
    Mill tips , first buy extra dogs ! Have a set for tall wood and set the other low so you don’t have to constantly change ! #2 a squirt of dish soap in a tank of water will work as lubricant fluid in the summer otherwise windshield washer fluid (-20) for fluid in the winter ! #3 make a pre staging deck to set multiple logs on with machinery and then hand roll them onto the leveled deck ! The less bouncing big logs on your cutting deck the more consistent your cuts will be ! Good luck…
  • Honestly, the sawmill is great for time-lapse stuff. It's good filler videos to put out between projects. Whole channels are dedicated to milling so it's definitely got an audience!
  • "I watched half of the online tutorial, so I'm basically an expert" had me laughing! Beautiful mill you will make it work
  • You may enjoy watching the girls milling timber on Lumbar Capitol Log yard. They often show how to’s and techniques for the Woodmizers, both 15 and 40. The colour changes in the first cut showed the fungal splatting, which is nice.👍😁
  • @johngrace199
    Matt...it's called 'spalting', it's the fungus beginning its initial work in the rotting process. Now that you'll be creating lots and lots of sawdust, and I'm fairly sure you've already thought of this, you can find unit to turn your sawdust into pellets for a pellet stove. If you haven't thought of it so far...invest in a metal detector before you ruin an expensive blade. You may want to consider some hearing muffs. Sorry for the thoughts from my cheap seat...another great video.
  • Matt you may need to get a moisture meter to how green the logs are and a metal detector to find nails in the logs so you don't dull blades.
  • @davidsing2495
    Matt, new subscriber here, but I just had to comment on your sawmill. That first log you cut is spalting, which is highly desirable for wood workers. Basically, it is a discoloration in the wood caused by fungi. Another thing is, after your first cut, you should turn you log over 180° . That ensures your second cut is square because your first cut is level. Then you can turn the log 1/4 for your third cut and then another 180° turn for your fourth cut. But by the time you might see this, you might have already figured that out. Another thing is, I highly recommend you watch a YouTuber called "Out of The Woods", time permitting, of course. He's a sawyer down in Tennessee. Keep up the excellent work!
  • @rogerray7820
    Old Sawyer here. Gotta rag on you some but will make life easier.#1 attach your rails to the concrete ( it moved when you put the first log on it)#2 ease into the log real slow to start then speed up. Listen to the mill, it will tell you how fast to go. #3 be sure the log is on cross rails on both ends, this helps do away with warping. # 4 two back dogs and one on the front are plenty, saves time. #5 personally I would raise the rails up to about 30 inches, saves the back. #6 throw your scrap on the forklift, handle it once and be done. #7 do not put that spalted lumber on your dump truck, the local woodworkers will lynch you for sure. Keep up the good work and continue to learn and life will be great.
  • it might be worth it to bring us along while you learn how to use your sawmill. It gives those of us who haven't seen one in action an idea of how planks are made. It gives your viewers who own sawmills a chance to give you tips if you run into trouble. They'll probably give the same level of satisfaction that all the power washing videos provide. And, you might inspire someone who's in a similar situation, who's not sure if it's feasible, to say I can do that, and get one of their own. For me, it reminds me of watching This Old House with my dad when I was a kid.
  • @mcdowelljason
    Great to hear you've managed to make this your full-time occupation, Matt. It's incredibly rewarding to see you succeed at what you love doing, and I look forward to following your progress for years to come.
  • @sak01
    Hey Matt, tie a small string to the feed leaver long enough to go the length you want, once it goes the length it'll pop the lever into neutral and you're good to go! (Assuming there's not too much momentum and it pops it into reverse, because that's not ideal!)
  • @JamesSargent-dh6ci
    Matt flip that machine 180°. Exhaust sawdust ejection toward the yard. Fuel and coolant toward the building, a little dawn helps, slippery when wet. Know bigger than 26"! And make some thin cribs for stacking. Please be on your best! This puppy is cool but can kill in the blink of an eye. And get more dogs and peaveies of all sizes. Get shims to place underneath the long cuts and save on blade burn and tension friction lot's of drag. Just a little love goes a long way. I can't what to see the look on your face when you brack a blade. Remember to do your duck impersonation. Low and live 50/50 ish chance. Bsafe or ill tell your wood dog's. 🥶🐲
  • You might want to build a landing dock to set your logs on and then roll them from the landing dock on to your mill carriage. --- Easy to make one out of a slightly modified old trailer frame, this would be easy to move later also. --- Ron & Marilyn Hansen
  • I have a feeling one day we will see a video of fitting an electric motor on that enormous door!
  • To ensure things last, use the RTFM rule. (Read the f***ing manual). You could also save yourself money by collecting the sawdust in a bucket. Less sweeping up, so less accidents and dirt tramped into your buildIngs.
  • @mosconi0359
    In my 66 years I've never heard someone say the words, "run of the mill" while "actually" referring to the blade on an "actual" mill. Thank you for that.
  • @Aintence
    neat machine. We got bigger one at our sawmill. A lot more automated. Couple tips: The initial contact between blade and log needs to be as slow as possible. Once blade is in, you can go faster. It minimizes risk of snapping the blades and causing wavy cut. Run it with plenty of water/lubricant. Once you start noticing waves on cut logs then you gotta change the blade. We run ours about 90-120min each between switching.
  • As far as I'm concerned the videos you create transcend "working on heavy equipment for you guys". They've always been more of a "lifestyle that I wish I had" type of content, in which this falls right in line with, in my humble opinion.  You don't just pick up equipment just to get it running. You put it to use and also tour with the equipment that you have resurrected, to the vintage equipment shows and are part of a thriving community. You also provide inspiration (hopefully) to a younger generation of aspiring mechanics and JOATs to get off the gaming consoles and out there doin stuff that's real!
  • @Chr.U.Cas1622
    There are sooo many sawmill videos online. I wonder why this guy didn't feel that he could use some advices. For instance: Use a pressure washer to clean the logs while having them on the forks of the skid steer or loader. It will definitely help that the saw blades last longer 2) Use a metal detector! This will also help that the sawblades last longer. 3) Use ear protection! And sometimes even a dust mask! 4) Take care of the sawdust. Don't let it sit on the ground near the sawmill and pile up. There's a lot one can do with sawdust. 5) Don't put the boards/slabs in your way. 6) Don't burn the slabs/rind boards because those can definitely at least become fire wood. It's t's useful biomass and one can sell the slabs and even the sawdust (although I would press big pellets out of the sawdust).
  • Tip on work-tactics: Place the skidsteer so you can toss the waste products on the forks and the products against the workshop wall. This way, you'll facilitate work by making it easier to remove waste products, no need to place the actual products to a better drying place, and you also increase safety so you won't fall on the waste. I would also consider moving the engine control switch (ignition switch) to the operator's panel for safety and convenience. Nice mill, Matt.