How to Replace Bearings LG Front Load Washer

Buy an LG Bearing Kit for your machine on our website! They come in three different sizes, so please read the description to figure out which is for you or give us a call and we can help! 😁 Standard: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/new-lg-fr… Large: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/washer-dr… Uncommon: lorainfurniture.com/shop/appliance-parts/new-lg-fr…

Dude, this video and the way you narrated the process is better then best …u didn’t piss me off once with unnecessary info and constant shots of your face. You were informative, to the point and the video was off only what was relevant to the job. Thank you very much for making this video, and your truck with the screwdriver at the end is what I do when ever possible

I rarely post any comments because I am generally too busy to spend the time doing so, but...this video is EXCELLENT! It made the bearing and seal replacement very achievable and after the cost of parts and some time, we are fully functional and I understand much of the washer's inner workings. THANK YOU for taking the time and the professional donation to the husband needing to get the washer functioning again!

Your video was excellent! Mother, daughter project complete! Note - I took the motor off. Then I took the drum down to our local Tire Factory and they took the bearings out and put the new ones in, in less than 2 hours. Super cheap too! I’m forever grateful!

Hey all, great video. One step he said that you’ll struggle with, I have a way that is easier for bearing removal… take a 1” socket and an extension. Slide it through the bigger opening of the 2 bearings. Four hits the first bearing came out. Flipped the drum over and used a 1’1/4 socket and extension and with two hits and it was out. Even pressure with the socket pushes is in a straight out motion, vrs the wiggle motion of exiting going side to side and going all around with a punch. Mechanical background came in handy for that part. Rest of it was fabulous and thank you for the video, machine is fixed 🤟

I just changed out the shock absorbers on my LG washing machine. Using a 12mm closed wrench makes getting the plastic pin out really easy. Just slide it on the back of the pin and it will squeeze the locking tab down so you can pull the pin out with pliers. It's very easy. If you find that the wrench won't slide on to the back of the pin easily, it may be because the locking tab is butted up against the housing. Try pushing the pin in to back the locking tab from the housing surface and you'll be able to slide the wrench on.

Fantastic! Takes you through the process step-by-step with no wasted time and lots of tips that saved me a LOT of time. One of the best repair videos I've seen. Too bad that YouTube doesn't back up incrementally to make re-assembly easier--but I didn't miss anything and the washer works great again. Thank you.

This video was great! I ordered the kit from you as well. I watched multiple videos. Yours is by far the best and most honest/realistic video. Getting the old bearings out was a beast but your tips helped. Definitely get some good penetrating fluid and let it soak and for sure freeze the new bearings (super helpful). Thank You!

This is a great video with easy to understand step by step instructions. The commentary is very accurate and very helpful all the way through the process. The only thing that I did differently was when pounding out the drum from the back side, I supported the tub housing upside down in the corner of my deck rail and then used a third support cut to length as a leg. This allowed the weight of the drum to hang while I was hitting on the shaft to free the drum from the bearings. Thank you very much for the video. Saved me tons of cash!

Absolutely the best step by step repair video I've ever come across in my life. Thank you sir.

This video was the only reason I was able to completely disassemble and restore my 2011 LG front load washer to like new condition. I even took on replacement of the spider arm and agitators. Could not believe the amount of mystery goop throughout the machine. It took me about 8 hours total but it was worth it to get another 10+ years out of the machine. Thank you so much!

Thank you for making this video! I just completed this repair. Took me about 5 hours over 2 days. My wife found a half tub with bearings installed. That made things a lot simpler.

Extremely difficult, but found the answer! The old bearing after 10+ years of use was extremely difficult to get out. I soaked with oil break-free spray for two days, used a 5lb. sledge hammer with a piece of wood both under the drum and on top of the shaft to prevent damage. I beat on that thing off and on for two days and it did not budge. I tried virtually every recommendation I could find to no avail. I was determined to break it loose. I ended up purchasing a screw the exact same length, diameter, and thread count as the screw that holds on the rotor(motor) and screws down into the shaft. I then put the drum directly on the cement floor with just a towel under it to prevent damage. I then screwed in the screw all the way down until the head was flush with the spindle I beat on it without any wood in between it. I will add I also placed padding around the spindle in case my hammer glanced off the head of the screw, damaging the drum. Now I was making direct contact with the spindle. After about 7-8 good smacks it began moving, a few more and it was done. The sacrificial screw unscrewed easily and it was done. Put it all back together and it was like brand new. So many people have fought this situation. I only wish they knew about this method. A side note: my neighbor asked me if I had taken up the hobby of black smithing. That would be no.

Not only a good technician but even better teacher, thanks for sharing such an amazing job...👌

Thank you for a great video. I watched a few on the same topic and yours is the best. You gave lots of little tidbits of information to look out for. You saved me a lot of time. One small addition to mention is on the spider shaft, besides where the bearings rest, also check the part where the seal contacts (close to the drum). I replaced my bearings 5 years ago, but they rusted because I didn't inspect that part of the shaft, and water leaked by the seal.

Wanted to say thank you. I just completed this repair and everything is working again. Took me a total of about 8-10hrs(4hrs to get washer apart and to get the bearings out: approx 6hrs to get the bearings back in, replace additional parts and reassemble washer). Took me forever to get rear tub /drum separated! A hammer and 2x4 didn't work for me. I thought maybe I was in that 20% that this doesn’t work for and was about to give up. I went and purchased a 16lb sledgehammer and was able to get the rear tub/drum separated on the first hit. Now the bearing took forever to get apart as well. I used a lot of penetrating oil, a hammer and socket extension (yes a socket extension…it's ruined the socket extension lol) but it worked. My washer was leaking thru the bearings which left a mess of brown dried up rust/crud on everything in the back of the washer, inner side panels and the top of the pedestal. While it was apart I took the time to clean all the built up rust/crud on the drum, front/rear tub and washer rotor assembly. This would be a great/only time you could do a deep cleaning to get to parts you wouldn’t be able to access with the washer together. Also, had to clean the motor(soft wire brush & damp rag)which had lots of crud on it as well. I was afraid bec it was so much gunk on the motor and magnets that it may not spin correctly so I cleaned it and also changed the washer rotor position sensor, bellos and water temp sensor since it was all apart and easier to do now. I did purchase a spider arm which I had full intentions on replacing since it was apart but upon further inspection, it just had a lot of crud on it which I cleaned up with scrubbing pad. After cleaning it there weren’t any cracks so I did not replace. Putting bearings in freezer and adding liquid detergent helped to get bearing back in easily. I would suggest for those attempting this a few pointers: Put the mushroom looking item and clamp front the top hose and clamp from the bottom hose in a bag. If you don't they are easy to lose without noticing as you move things around. Also, put a long socket on the plastic screws for the shocks(took me forever to get them them out with pliers). Take pics along the way as you disassemble the washer and label screws as they come out as all washers are similar but not exactly the same as the video. Other than that, video is gold for doing the job. Is it time consuming.....yes, but video walks you thru all the steps and saves a lot of money. Since most washers these days last 4-5yrs it seem, I rather keep what I have knowing the work I've put into it & new parts I have Lol Washer is working like brand new again! Thanks!

This was an incredibly hard job for me, as just a home owner. However, I could not have done it without this video. Thank you so much, for taking the time to do this and for the detailed explanation through the whole thing. You are amazing!!

Excellent tutorial! I just finished replacing the bearings on my 2009 LG washer and couldn’t have done it without your help. I was starting to think my washer fell into the 20% you said might not be repairable. After about 3 days of off and on pounding the shaft, a full can of penetraing fluid, several shattered pieces of 2x4s, and a broken handle on my sledgehammer I was just about ready to throw in the towel when the bearings finally let go (thankfully, without damaging anything else). What a relief! From then on, thanks to your clear instructions, it was smooth sailing. Can’t thank you enough.

Thanks so much. I just completed this repair, and I would not have attempted it without your detailed and thoughtful instructions. My seal had deteriorated, and the space between the large bearing and the seal was filled with a substance sort of like black dirt. Fortunately the shaft was in good shape and I had no problem removing the shaft from the bearing. Removing the bearings themselves however, as you warned, was a real pain requiring a lot of elbow grease. I employed a 24" solid metallic dowel that I had in the garage to act as a punch for the large bearing. The machine now runs quieter than it did 10 years ago when it was new. Definitely not a job for the faint of heart, but since a replacement is $1,500-$1,800 and OEM bearings and seals are about $100.... Thanks again!😁

Than You for taking the time to make an informative How To Video. The color dot in the rubber gasket seal for the tub indicates the splice. This is where the 2 ends are CA glued. This color dot needs to be located towards the top of the tub. The word “ TOP” not to be mistaken for the gasket seal facing outwards. But “TOP”, as in the physical location so as not to have the glued seal ends subjected to the bottom of the tub housing where the water level would be. If the gasket seal is placed on top of the tub housing then there is no possible way for a water leak in the event water seeps out at the gasket seals glued ends.