Why Some Places PUMP and Others Don’t…
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Published 2024-08-06
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All Comments (21)
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Jettys, piers or any hard structure will be a place for rip currents to form. The current will steadily form up against the structure which in turn leads to more defined sandbars in the area around that structure, instead of a normal beach break where the currents will form randomly and shift the sandbars
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Well somebody's been doing their homework Always appreciate and enjoy all of your content and for people reading these comments I highly recommend Dan's book a great read Thanks for sharing as always my friend Be well and Safe travels 👍
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Good info
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good job! I knew what makes it work, but did not know the terminology. Aside from that, breaking up your commentary with interesting information makes for a really good time. Thanks
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Great video! What about the angle of the swell vs the angle of the coast?
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Great vid, you forgot to talk about swell direction and coast direction. Also i feel like tides are a hudge factor too.
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Fantastic Mate , this is valuable info and understanding and planning epic sessions. I’m speaking under correction but wave size/height are perpendicular to ocean depth …hence the bigger the wave the deeper it breaks out in the ocean. With Hawaii it’s crazy how shallow the waves break at that size though.
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I live on the west coast of Ireland so the whole pacific to my west and I can confirm storms help with waves (there’s a storm every week😅)
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I’ve learned lots of places get waves, but without Good wind it’s hard to have good waves.
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Thanks for not mentioning Raglan and blowing it up
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great video!! could you make one about shore breaks/beach breaks
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I don’t really want hollow waves but I prefer beaches. I like maneuvers and if I can get a hollow section down the line then that’s perfect
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❤
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Nice video Dan. Check out the book Waves and Beaches to really nerd out
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Who takes your video footage when your surfing ?
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Good. Bascomb…
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and then there are cyclical lunar tides with scale and ebb or flood that can completely shut down or open a spot
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The angle, bottom depth and configuration , and shoreline along with strength and accessibility to swells of large proportion meaning be far away but not too far from the storm/wind.
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I didn't know you were located in the United Kingdom. Do people there ask you all the time why you are so tan or did you just return from a vacation?
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Why TF doesn’t Canada pump that much?? We have the most coastline out of any country but 99% is non surfable for one reason or another
