gasket and broken plastic valve in Neorest 500 FlushValve
832
Published 2016-09-10
Update: sry no pics, but what I ended up doing since 3 various glues could not hold the plastic together (even the maritime epoxy rated 3960 psi came undone and yes, i waited over 30 hrs for it to harden):
the small round piece with the prongs -- I ended up removing the broken off 'shaft' piece completely. I found a nylon screw that fit perfectly through the holes. So I threaded the screw through from the bottom of the big plastic piece. I used the maritime epoxy again to seal any cracks between the screw and the hole in the larger plastic piece. Once set, I painstakingly wore the head of the screw down as thin as possible using toenail clippers. I also did the same to the little nub in the mold of the flush valve where this whole thing fits b/c otherwise the assembly wouldn't compress down far enough to allow water to flow when you want it to.
Then the rubber can be mounted and then the small, circular plastic bit can fit down the screw and secured into place with a nylon nut.
Reassembled and it's good to go!
Removal/dissasembly:
helpful: www.specsserver.com/CACHE/FRDAQHWGNYWA.PDF
tools needed: the included tool or a flathead screwdriver. a flat/wide mouth pliers. small and medium phillips screwdriver. towel for floor, hand towels, and a thick sponge or some more hand towels. Strong, pointed scissors or a knife
1. Water shutoff
2. Unplug power to toilet
3. spread towel behind toilet on floor
4. remove covers: a)water diverter cover with screwdriver, b)above that on the washlet another cover pops off, c) under the 'main controls' buttons on the washlet pry off the little round screw cover with finger. d)another screw cover on opposite side, e)the manual flush nob labeled 1 and 2: use fingernail to pop off cover, small screwdriver to take out screw and pull out nob.
5. remaining screws: a) the 2 screws under the screw covers, and b) behind on the underside of the toilet there are multiple wingnuts. Only unscrew and remove the corner wingnuts that are closest to the bathroom wall. That's no more than 2 wingnuts total. A long screw will come out with a bunch of washers on it. Keep them intact and just set them aside.
6. From the oval looking cover popped off the washlet earlier, there is some wires hooked together. Note that yellow is paired with yellow. Unplug them and try to get the lower plug to hang outside, as we don't want to pull it when we lift the washlet unit off.
7. Clamp. There's a small C-clamp around the smaller brass connections down by the pipes. Just pull and remove the clamp.
8. This skinny tube is connected to the washlet above. Carefully push it straight up to separate the connection. It may be tight from suction created by water or just age, but don't put lateral pressure on it b/c u don't want to scratch the washer that's a bit lower inside.
9. Lift the washlet unit straight up and off, careful to make sure the wires we disconnected earlier are not caught on something and being pulled up. Some water might drip from the wand; just tilt towards the bowl until dripping stops and set the washlet somewhere out of the way, careful not to damage the pipe with the rubber on the end of it.
10. 4 screws hold the flush valve in place to the toilet. unscrew and set aside.
11. Long plastic tube from flush valve to the toilet. Use Flat/wide pliers to squeeze the upper ring holding the tube in place and move it out of the way towards the middle. With fingernails, u want to push the tubing down until u can disconnect it. Pulling doesn't work and u might damage it.
12. More C-clamps. Some or all of the metal C-clamps around the connections are secured with zip ties. Cut them off and remove C clamps. I just hung the clamps on the edges of the toilet so I know where they came from.
13. Disconnect hoses. There are 3 connections. Two on top and one bigger one on the bottom. Put the sponge or a bunch of towels under the big connection, as a lot of water from inside will come out from there. Use a hand towel to catch some water from the upper two connections as you pull and disconnect them. When the upper hoses are off, it's now easier to get the wires since I think they are wedged in between the hoses. Water will begin to come out so make sure the wires will remain dry. Slowly wiggle until you can get the last connection free. You can tilt the flush valve into the bowl to drain the water.
14. Take the pliers and medium phillips with the flush valve to a work bench
15. If your 'work bench' happens to be by the sink/kitchen, cover all drains.
All Comments (3)
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I ran out of room in the description, so: 16. You may hear some klinking. Perfectly normal as there's a few plastic valves that are basically swinging doors inside. There's still some water trapped inside, so work over a container or more towels. The underside has 9 screws. loosening them will free the trapped water. In removing the bottom, things may fall out. Note that in here, the larger gasket parts includes a thin metal rod. You might think the smaller gasket also had one b/c u see a hole for it, but don't worry, only the larger one had the metal stick. 17. If the little hose holding the pieces together annoys you, u can unhook with pliers to separate them, but this is optional. 18. Here is what was specific to my problem. As you see, my plastic piece broke and got sucked into the unit. I made a "noose" with dental floss, basically tying a knot like a fishing lure and hooking the piece and pulling it back out. If yours broke too and you don't see it up there after shaking it a bit, it's inside the center. You will have to remove more to get at it: a)remove the 4 screws holding the motor, b) set aside the motor, c)remove the 4 screws holding the white plastic, d) if you look at the back, u will see a space and a bit of the white plastic. use the screwdriver to push on the plastic while u carefully pull from the front. Things may fly apart suddenly as the seal is tight and there is a spring. If you lose track of the pieces, there is a wedge shaped "door" when you place back into place, the completely flat side of it is down and it needs to cover the hole that's about the 5 o'clock position. Then the spring goes on top, then place the cover back on.
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Came across the description. WOW! Thanks. My Neorest 500 started seeping water into the bowl (with annoying hissing). Did you find a source for parts? I don't think it's the upper-section piston in my case, looks like the solenoid-turn driven valve is "incompitent".
