Copying a whole miniature with BLUE STUFF - Blue Stuff/Oyumaru review
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Published 2020-06-25
Skip to 08:00 to see the finished product and 08:50 to see it painted.
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All Comments (21)
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It helps a lot if you put the first half in the fridge so it get cold and then press the second half (Hot as possible) quickly on the first half this Way they seperate easy
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Helpful video, your experiences seem to be identical to mine. Heads up using GW stuff, I believe Miniature Hobbyist was issued a cease and desist for using their models in a casting video and had to delete, modify and re-do some of his videos.
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You said it: result depends on the effort you put in the work of the mould.... And project, and painting, in everything, as a matter of fact! Good job, man!
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Great tutorial! I hadn't thought of using a clamp or weights, so will have to try that next time.
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I built a little box out of cheap 3rd party lego and put the molds in it to align better and easier to put pressure on it. Also this coping technique is very useful for minis that can be built in different way and u have extra bits: arms, weapon options ,heads. Just cast the bodies and voila double the units for only a slight increase in price.
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Those shadows are amazing. Makes me have some ideas for my sentinel.
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For such a normal video the music really is quite creepy...I love it!
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Hi, a good video there mate. I'm sold on blue stuff for replicating small parts, shield patterns, weapons, goblin torsos or a limb here and there. (And a 15mm tank turret crew hatch lid 👍☺) For even slightly larger items you're fighting time shaping the blue stuff before it cools. One tip is to prime the cup/hot water recepticle first, so holding the heat longer to soften the blue stuff more/prolong it's working time. Another is to dust the first half with talcum powder so as to prevent the adherence of the hot new half to the cooler first half. Some people might use graphite powder, if they have the money for it (and a source of it!)
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Really nice work, man. love the object source lighting. Well done, dude
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Amazing video. But I have a question ... what is the final hardness of the cloned piece?
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if you are building alot of infantry for a guard army would you recommend blue stuff molding or 3d printing
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Thank you very much for this video. I've been testing this method for some months with pretty good results although some pieces got bulged or warped. Now I know why. Thanks.
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It's been 6 months since you posted this, and I'm really curious about how is your blue Stuff now, regarding the dirt generated from the clay. Has it become an issue?
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Curious to see the side-by-side versions of the original figure compared to the copied version. Good video though.
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How well do you think this process would work with Forgeworld resin bits? I have a few OOP parts that I’d like to make more of to kitbash for my army
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thank you i was looking for a alternative to silicon molds!
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How do you line up the two different halves of the mould? It looks like it would be easy to get them misaligned
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Could you coat the two sides with oil or something so they don't stick?
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is the putty pretty sturdy? Will parts cast with this stuff last a long time?
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Pushing up the blue stuff around the edge of the miniature... oh c'mon why didn't I think of that. I've been failing for weeks due to lots of flash and imprecise edges. Thanks, just that visual tip alone was enough to make a difference!