HOW GOOD is Molding and Casting with "Blue Stuff"?...

I suggest making a Lego frame to make neat square molds.

From what I remember watching tutorials with this stuff, the secret to 2 stuff molds is to use toothpicks to provide channels for the extra material to go out of when you squish the two halves together

50 50 miliput greenstuff mix, and clean the excess off the mould before pressing together. Cast in a small lego box for no mould expansion when casting the original piece.

I was half expecting a Goobertown Hobbies insert with Brent explaining why the plastics stuck together.

What I've done is put down a few layers of watered down liquid green stuff to capture the detail, then put down the solid green stuff to block it out. It's flexible enough, versatile enough, and it captures great detail

I’ve used sculpy to make molds of Gundam parts that I’ve lost, and then sculpy again to cast them. It’s worked alright.

Thank you for including the bit with the plastic bag, it's very useful to know that that isn't an option

Plasmo has got to be my favourite diorama/ WW2 modeller in existence

Make a small mold case for the blue stuff before pressing the part in. I use plastic card or popsicle sticks. This helps with keeping a consistent thickness beneath the part as well as controlling the amount of blue stuff you use. A 2 part mold needs registration marks for the 2 halves to meet together the same way each time.

if you want to cast something like the wings, get some casting silicone. make a 2 piece mold, and measure out how much casting material you'll need. with sufficient pressure on both sides of the mold, you'll only have to do minor cleanup.

From the small amount I know about UV resin I think your problems with it's curing might have come from the blue stuff mold's blue color. The color and opacity of the mold can affect how evenly and easily the UV light reaches the resin. This can cause some areas to cure unevenly or take forever to cure if the mold is absorbing or blocking a significant amount of UV light.

Hanging out with Dave is probably my favorite segment

Here comes the most powerful unit GW’s ever come up with: Lawyers!

One great medium for making recasts is your old sprues..simply soak in acetone and once soft use them,they take a while to set but once they do they work a treat

I found that type of molding putty is great for 1 sided stuff like shields or duplicating resin bases. Making a good 2 sided mold requires a lot more practice. I would highly suggest using some beads or something around the part to make indents that are easy to use to allign both halves of the mold. I t's still hard to get good results because the putty is still flexible when cooled down. So when you push your halves together it deforms the inprint...

Referred to this channel by a friend. I liked your realistic expectations, given recasting would require a lot of trial and error/experience for everyone in the beginning. Just sets a good standard for beginners and doesn't leave us feeling like we're going to be attempting the impossible.

I use sculpting tools to push epoxy into the mold details then bulk out the main body of the piece. I like apoxie sculpt because you can use isopropyl alcohol to brush away the excess flash or to thin it significantly before putting the two halves of the mold together

I would love to see you making things for the minis to use. I know this is more diorama then table top game, but little fires with pots of soup, tents for sleeping, storing stuff, planning your battle, for cooking or as a lazarette tent would be great. And for the battle itself: chariots!

I've recently discovered bluestuff & have been making some lounges & bucket seats for boats, trucks & cars in 1/35 using fibreglass resin. They come out with a cloth like texture. I'm happy with the results.

I've dabbled with recasting. I've found success with two part silicon molds. I use a lego box frame and press an even layer of plasticine clay into it. I then press the model on it's sprue or custom venting into the clay up to the part's mold line, and poke keying holes in the corners and voids. I mix up silicon and pour from a height in one corner of the mold box. Once it has set, I disassemble, leaving the model in the silicon, but cleaning all the clay off. Then you just flip it over, rebuild the box, dust the silicon with very small amount of talcum powder, the pour another batch of silicon over it to make the other half. Important note, you will think that you screwed up and didn't put enough talc and the mold fully bonded. Which yes that might be the case, but also even if you did everything right, the mold will still be challenging to separate. Your forearms will be burning by the time you get your sprue out. If you do it often enough, you'll start to look like a gorilla, it's good fun.