Dirty Genes (V6) - Tall Beta: Lake Tahoe Bouldering [Pfiff]
Published 2024-08-05
Quite tough. Pretty small feet, technical, tensiony, confusing. It took me a long time to figure out the method, and it ended up being super weird. It was critical to get that sloper as a sort of upside down palm press meathook thing to do the big dynamic step up. You can't see in the video but I swap into a palm press on the top of the left hand to hold the barn door, very comp style. Unfortunately that dynamic move is off a really tiny foot, so it feels quite tenuous. The entire climb is stressful due to the positioning and size of the footholds. There are two right crimps I opted not to use, but they were bad, not facing the right direction, and in weird spots. But maybe they will help you.
Also noting I started left hand a few inches from the arete instead of on the arete. Technically not what the guidebook describes, but it felt natural to use the face hold as the starting hold to me due to how close they are.
Climber stats: 6'4" (+5"), 200lbs
Maximum boulder grade at time of video: V10
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• Tall Climber Beta
#climbing, #bouldering, #rockclimbing #laketahoe