3D Printing Myths I used to believe...

Here's a myth to test: "If I'll watch it, it won't go bad"

Folded paper? I've never done that. I've always used paper but unfolded. It's always worked fine

This video is the epitome of what people need when they search for advice! Straight to the point, no sponsors, back stories, no fluff. This worked perfectly in real time. No issues. Thank you!

My father, who used to work as an engineer for military branch of Boeing in the late 80s, brought home various 3D printed items from his work at that time. For demonstration the 3d items were all designed with features that couldn't be manufactured with the common slide mold. For example, they produced a rook chess test piece that had a complex spiral stair case inside that couldn't be reproduced by conventional methods. It was quite an impressive achievement for that era.

Biggest myth I used to believe: That I was too dumb for 3D printing. I had no experience with wiring, electricity, motors, electronics, robotics, CAD or 3D modeling, or computers (aside from just running Windows). I had no applicable skills to make me believe I could even try. But I bought a kit from Creality, put it all together myself, and have been 3D printing for about the last two years. In that time I've replaced, upgraded, or added to almost every component of the machine (often using parts the machine itself printed).

You just made me realise that leveling the bed while not pre-heating is probably why my Z-heights have been mysteriously inconsistent. Thanks for the tips mate!

As a former engineer with tons of machine shop experience, I’ve always hated the term bed leveling. I level using a feeler gauge, but I take one more step. I place the nozzle directly over the center of the leveling screws. This eliminates any errors that might be introduced by being too far away from those fulcrum points.

3D printing used to be called "Rapid prototyping" and I first saw it in use as early as 1997. Resin printing, basically. I think what created the media moment for 3D printing was the success of the open source movement around filament deposition. The RepRap project made it accessible to anybody, and that's what was the real sensation. This was around 2010, really, when things blew up.

I recommend using three feeler gauges: Your target initial clearance, the next thickest gauge, and the next thinnest gauge. Set the initial clearance with the target gauge and then use the other two gauges to confirm. The thinner gauge should slide under the nozzle without contact and the thicker gauge should hit the side of the nozzle.

Haven't seen a topic like this covered in years. A refresher from all the top creators would actually be awesome.

Also note that when you are leveling and using a piece of paper try and use a different part of the paper at each corner (and center) as the paper might get dented when you are feeling the distance (like writing with an empty pen). And also before you do feel for the nozzle height. You are heating the nozzle already and a tiny bit of filament might have already oozed out of the nozzle or starts to ooze out during the leveling giving tiny skewed results.

HOLY CRAP. I argued with almost the entirety of Facebook's "3d Printing" group that it was better to use feeler gauges over paper. Paper gets moist from handling it too long, paper gets affected by the heat from the nozzle and tears, paper won't knock out the oozing plastic as well as a feeler gauge, feeler gauge (with thickness of your first layer height... 0.2mm) is far more accurate/consistent than using a thin piece of paper as your "0.0mm", paper deforms (becomes thinner) if the nozzle digs in too low, etc etc. And you won't believe that nearly 100% of the members would scream and yell that feeler gauges is the "absolutely wrong way" of doing it... and the two or three guys who DID use feeler gauges wouldn't back me up on it.

I don't think I've EVER heard of using a folded paper for tramming. That would be absurd. Every tutorial I've seen says to use a single, thin sheet.

I never thought that I'd live to see the day when a major 3D printing Guru would assert the term "Tramming". Now I can rest.

That whole bed leveling procedure makes me so increadibly happy that I bought a printer with auto bed leveling. Especially for someone new to 3d printing it just removes so much possibilities for error

That leveling tip is awesome! I just started with 3d printing and had a difficult time leveling the bed. I did had the feeling that it goes up a bit at the beginning and you confirmed that. I got a feeler gauge right away and the first layer is perfect now! Thank you so much for sharing!

Bud, you’re not supposed to fold the paper over at all. That’s why it’s too high….

A dedicated video on levelling the bed using the Feeler gauge would help a lot

Thank you so much for the bed leveling bit...I just got my 1st 3D printer and have been making really awesome spaghetti with it after leveling the bed with a sheet of paper about 17 times.

Thank you for teaching me how to use my feeler gauge correctly. I had been using an ultrathin feeler to get "0", but moving up 0.2mm on Z and using a 0.203mm feeler gauge immediately gave me a perfect first layer after having to replace my Z-home switch.